The Most Iconic And Popular Dive Watch In the World

Spread the love

The Rolex Submariner can agreeably be described as the most recognizable, most iconic, and also, the most emulated dive watch in the world. It is also known to be the most influential sports timepiece of all time.

Rolex has cemented its leading status and position in the horology industry with avant-garde technologies and creations. And simultaneously, one of the significant outcomes of the brand, the Rolex Submariner progressed to a higher level.

Rolex has upgraded the Submariner over the years, making it an essential breakthrough for any potential watch collection. The Submariner is one of the Rolex watches that enjoy unparalleled desirability among collectors across the world, both vintage and contemporary.

Continue reading to explore the creation and advancement of this most iconic and ultimate diver watch.

The Origination

Rolex had an old relationship with the sea. The brand had been dedicatedly working on making its watches water-resistant and finally unleashed the signature Oyster case in 1926.

However, Rolex’s Public Relation Director, Rene-Paul Jeanneret, came up with the idea of the Submariner. Jeanneret was himself a passionate diver and played the most significant role in constructing the concept of tool watch – that can work more than just telling the time.

Rolex introduced the Rolex Reference 6204 that is considered the first Submariner. The watch flaunted a jet black dial with luminescent baton and dot hour markers. The dial also featured an inverted triangle at the 12 o’clock side.

However, the brand equipped the watch with 60-minutes engraved bezel. But the hashes for the first 15 were missing. Rolex upgraded the later versions with the hashes, and this helped the users in tracking the end of a dive more precisely.

Interestingly, Rolex progressed to create a more significant innovation, exclusively for the Submariner lineup at that time. Initially, the Oyster case was constructed with a particular winding crown system. Here, the crown was fastened to a gasket that screwed inside the case’s tube.

Eventually, it prevented moisture and other debris from getting in and wedging the movement. Now, the watchmaker upgraded the system substantially for the new purpose-built divers’ watch. And the result was the formation of a Twinlock crown that increased the water-resistant ability of the Rolex Submariner up to 330ft (100m).

The Period of Fine-Tuning & Settling Down

With its impressive design, robustness, and water-resistance ability, Rolex Submariner already captured the attention of wide collectors across the world. Rolex later released nearly eight references of the Submariner, including the References 6205, 6536, 5510, and 5508.

However, the watch attained consistency to some extent with the introduction of Reference 5512 in 1959. The design and silhouette of this watch continued to stay similar for the next half-century.

You can consider this model to be the amalgamation of many significant features included in the previous eight Submariner editions. The Submariner 5512 featured a 40mm case, a redevised bezel with complete markings, and the Mercedes-style hands.

However, one of the most interesting additions was the crown guards. What makes this watch historically significant is the fact that it had nearly all the features that are found in contemporary versions of the Submariner. Both Reference 5512 and Reference 5513 were in production for a longer time.

The Modern Rolex Submariner

The iconic Submariner collection completed half a century in 2003. Rolex launched the new stainless steel Submariner 16610LV to celebrate this occasion. The brand used the color green for the first time to design its iconic diver, Reference 16610LV, where ‘LV’ means ‘green bezel’ in French. Nicknamed as the ‘Kermit’, this green watch is among the most coveted Submariners from the neo-vintage era.

However, the most significant changes to the classic Submariner’s appearance were brought by the following generation of the Reference 1166xx line. Rolex fitted the watches of this Submariner generation with Cerachrom bezel. This patented ceramic material is both scratch-resistant and fade-proof, making the model look brand-new forever.

Interestingly, the watchmaker is known to receive suggestions from its enthusiasts that the 40mm case diameter was small for a contemporary sports watch. In response to it, the brand created the Super Case. The dimensions were similar in the paper, but Rolex made the crown guards and lugs comprehensively thicker, thereby making it look much more prominent.

Well, the most significant launch from Rolex in 2020 was the new upgraded Submariner featuring a more prominent 41mm case. However, the watchmaker softened the squared-off, bulky elements of the Super Case in this new model. It reflects the case that had a more subtle sweeping silhouette while retaining the angular design of the earlier generation.

More significantly, Rolex finally upgraded the movement. For over 30years, the Calibre 3135 movement powered the Submariner Date watches. No doubt, it is known to be an outstanding mass-produced movement ever produced. But Rolex equipped many other models already with the next-generation movement.

So the new Submariner watches house the latest Calibre 3235 movement that replaced nearly 90% of the elements present in the Calibre 3135.  Overall, the Submariner is the first watch of choice for those who are venturing into the Rolex catalog for the first time.


Author Name: The Luxury Hut

Author URL:

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *